Gear Change

By getting under the car, while someone operated the gear lever, I was soon able to find the problem in my gear change. The original lever and it's connection were severely worn. The route that I took to overcome it was to use an original Honda linkage. This had the advantage of having the second fixed rod, although I did have to create a boss for it to locate on, as the box was effectively the wrong way around.

The rods needed to be shortened and a little reshaping of the fixed rod. With the new linkage fitted, together with the previously modified cross gate section, we had all gears present & correctly placed and a lever that looked made for the job.

 

With the gear change sorted, I returned to the wiring, which had thrown up it's own challenges along the way. I was replacing the original capillary gauges with electric ones and had chosen the Racetec ones. Enter Covid and a supply problem with the water temp one, delayed things a little bit but the rest of the wiring  proved to be quite straight forward. The alternator charging system did present problems. The standard Honda alternator which I wanted to use, gets triggered through the ECU and of course our after market unit doesn't offer that facility. Lots of research by Andrew [he knows about these things] led to a partial solution. Our unit utilises 3 wires

and it seems that fitting a 1000k ohm resistor between an ignition feed and the blue wire would do the job. To a degree this worked, the only problem, the ignition warning light flashes instead of being on continuously. I goes out as soon as the engine starts and the battery is getting a full 14.2v. [Answers on a postcard please]. The lock down had finished before the water temperature pitched up and I was able to complete the wiring.